Painting Skeletons: Grenadier Fantasy Lords Undead

I'm taking the opportunity to show how I paint skeletons.  These archers are pretty much just bone and equipment, so they make great subjects.  You can see the whole unit in the previous post, I'm choosing just three to show the process.

Preparation

Once the mould lines are removed, and any repairs done, the minis are superglued on to the bases.  I use 25mm round bases (actually spare GW slotta bases). If there are any exposed slots, and if I remember,  I cover these with masking tape. 

Then the minis are fixed on to my home made painting handles and primed with Vallejo German Green Primer. 

Primed

Once the primer has been given plenty of time to cure, it's on with the base coats.

Metals; anything that's going to be silver or steel is painted Vallejo Game Color Gunmetal. 

Large areas of bronze,  brass or gold start with a base of VGC Tinny Tin.

Helms, belt buckles etc

Bones: I pick out the bones in VGC Bonewhite,  the important thing here is to leave the deeper areas in the primer colour. 

This is a tedious business, and works best with well sculpted skeletons.  The Grenadier skeletons are ideal for this technique; some of the models I've painted recently lacked detail and it felt like I was painting it in. If you can, try and pay attention to bits like the kneecaps and the knuckle bones, and don't forget to emphasise the radius and ulna (lower arm bones) and tibia and fibula (lower leg bones). This really sells the idea of it being a skeleton.

First pass on the bones

Wood, leather etc: these skeletons don't have any clothes, so all that's left is to base coat the remaining equipment.  

VGC Scorched Brown is excellent for this, and is also good as a base coat for those smaller areas of bronze or gold, such as studs, belt buckles etc. (I missed getting a picture of this stage, but you can see the results on the next photo.)

Black wash: the metals are given a black wash.  This not only provides shade but it dulls down the metal, very appropriate for undead gear.  

If you like your skeletons with hollow eye sockets rather than an unholy glow, dot a bit of black wash in them now. 

Dark brown stage

Bones again: highlight the bones with white.  Don't worry if it looks a bit stark, the wash will take care of that later. 

Pay particular attention to the top of the skull (if visible), round the eye sockets,  cheek bones and teeth,  plus those kneecaps etc.

Bones highlight, the skeletons are starting to look OK now

Equipment details: edge highlight leather straps with a light brown (VGC Leather Brown). It's sometimes worth having a couple of different browns for the leather to differentiate between bits of gear (VGC Beasty Brown or Terra are good). I know leather can be dyed, but I like to have certain 'go to' colours.

For wooden areas I use a fine brush to add slightly wavy lines along in the direction of the grain. I start with a yellow/brown (VGC Desert Yellow) then a lighter buff (Vallejo Iraqi Sand). This mimics the texture we expect to see, though realistically the wood would be far smoother, especially on regularly handled items like spear shafts. Wood changes colour as it ages. Left untreated it greys, depending on type. Equipment, which we can assume is more cared for than fences or outbuildings, would retain a paler yellowish colour. If you're not sure, just look at some fresh timber in your local woodyard or DIY shop.  I'm still working on getting this looking right.

I also painted the feathers on the arrows a dark yellow.

Mostly done, they'd be OK here, but I like to add more shading and little details

Sonic Tonic: I give the whole mini a wash with Sonic Tonic/Marine Juice. This both adds depth to the shading and helps blend the highlights so they are less harsh.

Sonic Tonic brings out the details

Final Details: then it's just a case of dotting in the buttons and studs, and a bit of white drybrush on the bone (skull and ribcage mostly). I also add Vallejo Model Effects Dry Rust and Rust, using an old brush. Give a good coat of Dry Rust over the whole area you want to look rusty,  then dab Rust in patches.  Think about which areas are likely to rust (generally,  places where water can collect or where there is damage). I could add a lot more rust than I do, but I'm happy with the results.

Rust Effects

The Finished Minis: varnished and with base texture added, the skeletons are ready to join their unit. 

I find sticking to a set process helps me get the bony chaps done, and they have a pleasing unity.

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